Patto’s Place; 1/32 NASCAR Truck Vac-Body Builds – 2 of 3 Pairs

#98 - Raybestos Retro Truck - Kenny Irwin Jr. - 2020
#99 - Texaco Havoline Truck 5 - Ben Rhodes - 2019

As for the cockpit, the setup I had originally planned―using a 3D printed 1/32-scale interior―just looked a bit too petite to really fit into the generously-sized body of a NASCAR truck.

So I decided to take a shortcut and look for alternative pre-painted 1/32 Lightweight Cockpits to simplify the process. While searching on eBay, I came across a listing from the “Slot Car and Bicycle Emporium” eBay store for cockpits described as “beautifully handmade in Brazil.” They had caught my attention, so I figured I’d give them a try this time.

The downside was that the selection of painted racing driver variants was very limited, and there weren’t many options in the range, so I had to go with what was available.

The character designs don’t match the schemes on the cars at all, but I figure both can pass as guest drivers at a Goodwood-style exhibition event.

Before starting this whole project, I searched all over Google hoping to find photos of other people’s completed builds—something I could look at and get a sense of how they went about it, and use as a reference for my own approach. I did come across a few forum threads where people mentioned working on NASCAR trucks—often using AMT or Monogram kits, custom resin bodies, or 3D-printed shells. In those same forums, you’d occasionally find someone asking, “Why hasn’t any brand released a NASCAR truck yet?” And in the replies, there was always at least one well-meaning expert chiming in with something like, “There’s a place in Australia called Patto’s Place—they’ve got vac-formed truck bodies.”

But even those who kindly pointed them out—people who always seemed to know where to find them—never posted any proof that they’d actually built.

Not one single photo—ever.

Patto’s Place also has a gallery page on their site, where customers can send in photos of finished cars made using Patto’s decals or bodies, and Patto uploads them for everyone to enjoy. It’s full of inspiring builds—but not a single NASCAR truck to be found.

I’m sure someone out there has built a NASCAR truck using a Patto’s Place body—and I imagine they’re casually enjoyed at a few commercial tracks near Patto in Australia.

But surprisingly, the activities of slot racers in the Southern Hemisphere are rarely seen—aside from the occasional forum post, there’s hardly any visual coverage of their work.

When I try Googling with general keywords, the results mostly come from North America, the UK, or sometimes France.

As for local shops in the Southern Hemisphere—or even in Germany or Spain—I really have to dig with intention to find them, and even then, it’s not easy.

Patto’s Place; 1/32 NASCAR Truck Vac-Body Builds – 1 of 3 Pairs

#75 - Tide Downy Chevy Truck - Parker Kligerman - 2022

  #3 - Goodwrench Chevy Truck - Mike Skinner - 2016

Back when I was customizing a Scalextric Monte Carlo, I had quite a few conversations with Patto about NASCAR decals. Along the way, I found myself repeatedly browsing through the lineup of scratchbuilding resources Patto’s Place offers―and that’s when I discovered he actually had NASCAR trucks in the catalog.

It’s been 20 years since I first got into the slot car hobby in 2005, and still—not one single major brand has released a NASCAR truck.

Usually, the only option was for a few dedicated truck fans to build their own models from scratch, based on Monogram kits or small-run vac or resin bodies made by individual builders.

I actually did something similar myself about 14 years ago―using a different vac-formed body offered by Hot Laps Racin’, a.k.a. marair23 on eBay, to create a fantasy-liveried #42 Havoline Dodge.
https://nightbirdsfly.blogspot.com/2011/11/lexan-tinkering.html

Some optimists just took an easy shortcut―chopping off the rear cabin of a regular NASCAR Cup-style body and calling it a “pickup truck.” But that’s the absolute last thing I’d want to do. A slanted nose just doesn’t look like a pickup truck to my eyes―though maybe to an Aussie, it might pass as a “Ute."

Even among real-life trucks, I’ve never liked the era―roughly from the mid-’90s to mid-2000s―when slanted noses were the norm. I’ve always preferred the square-jawed, chunky, fist-like front end.

When the parcel from Patto arrived and I got my first look at the vac-formed clear PETG bodies, I honestly had no idea how to even approach them―I was totally at a loss. I quietly closed the box and left it untouched for a few months.

Later on, after working on the Monte Carlo and Lola T70 projects, I waited for that perfect moment when both my energy and motivation were peaking―then opened the box again.

Inside were four vac-formed bodies: two 2014–15 Chevy trucks and two 2014–15 Ford trucks. Determined not to let the momentum slip away, I started by cutting out the windows.

Big mistake.

The blade slipped mid-cut, and from that small overrun, a split quickly ran down the side of the thin shell―like tearing a sheet of paper.

Patto’s website mentioned the material as 0.5mm PETG,

but when I actually measured the body, it was only 0.1mm.

I emailed to complain, “This is way too thin!” and Patto replied, “Well yeah, it gets thinner when it stretches over the mold.” Fair enough―he had a point.

My fired-up motivation instantly froze over. I closed the box again. But I didn’t forget to order two truck bodies―one to replace the torn one, and one more for backup.

Despite the thinness, I had to admit―the body shape was great, and I was really impressed with the quality of the 'Peel & Stick Vinyl' reverse stickers. So even with the setback, a faint ember of motivation was still glowing. As soon as the replacements arrive, I plan to try again.

This time, I won’t cut out the windows. With a body thickness of just 0.1mm, it’s already fragile enough. Plus, when course marshals grab my car that’s off the track, they’ll likely grip it pretty firmly―and it could be crushed instantly. So instead of chasing realism, I’ve decided to prioritize structural integrity.

That means my re-start on this project will take the form of an R/C-style build: applying reverse decals to the inside of a clear body. 

It’ll be my first time trying something like this. 

Any gaps between the stickers can be filled in with flexible soft vinyl paint. Even just doing that gives the car a proper look. It’s great―it really keeps the motivation going.

Thanks to the printed decals, one of the trickiest parts of working with clear vac-formed bodies―the wheel arch cutouts―gets a lot easier. 

No need to place the body over a rolling chassis, eyeball the tire positions with a marker, and sketch out a rough wheel arch freehand. Just cut along the printed decal lines.

That said, even with Tamiya’s curved scissors, it’s tough to get tight cuts on the arches. Those scissors are made for 1/10 scale curves, so for 1/32, it’s probably better to make rough cuts and refine the shape later with a Dremel sanding drum.

After sanding, the friction often leaves a rough edge along the arches—burrs in the PETG and torn bits of the sticker film. I gently swept both away with just the very tip of the knife, careful not to cut into the body.

Patto's vac body kits also come with a flat PETG sheet that’s meant to be folded into a rear spoiler, and a sticker meant to go on the inside of the fold.

I tried building it as intended, but since the rear spoiler is such a small piece, the PETG doesn’t stretch much during molding―it stays thick, reducing clarity, and the sticker print barely shows through. Stacking two of them just made it look awkwardly bulky.

So I ended up scratchbuilding my own from 1mm ABS sheet.

I also made six struts and mounted them behind the rear spoiler―probably the only real visual accent on these otherwise featureless NASCAR truck bodies.

I used the ever-reliable HRS-2 chassis in a rigid mount configuration. The wheels, tires, and inserts are the same setup as I used on the Monte Carlo. For 1/32 NASCAR builds, this size works best for me.

Not quite a full scratchbuild, but far beyond a simple kitbash―this build combines raw vac-formed bodies and 'Peel & Stick Vinyl' reverse stickers (both from Patto’s Place), along with added details and an HRS-2 chassis setup.

What started out as a daunting, unapproachable set of four vac bodies eventually turned into four finished cars—and even two extras beyond that. It genuinely eased the burden I’d been carrying all this time.

Whether that’s something to be glad about or not, I’m honestly not sure. Everyone sees life and death a little differently.

Still, everything that’s happened—or didn’t happen—during these dwindling days feels like a quiet blessing.

I once heard someone say, “Everything I came to know was worth knowing, and everything I never learned wasn’t necessary to know.

When the end of life still feels far away, it’s hard to see things that way. But when the heart truly arrives at that place, death no longer seems so frightening. And because so few days remain, I try to live each one with gratitude.

FLY/ SLOT WINGS; Renault 5 Gen2 GT turbo

Even though I know I need to start reducing the number of untouched “cold” cars in my collection as I move toward closing chapters of my life, I ended up buying yet another RTR.

This time, it was the long-awaited FLY Renault 5 Gen2 GT Turbo.

That said, I had zero interest in the initial release—the ones with the V1 chassis. The rear tab alignment was off, and combined with oversized tires and an oddly slammed ride height, the proportions looked completely wrong. It just wasn’t something I could bring myself to buy. On top of that, the livery wasn’t compelling enough to make me want to jump on it.

Later, the design was updated to a V2 chassis, where the rear tabs were raised slightly and the rear ride height improved a little. Around the same time, more appealing liveries started to show up. That’s when I finally picked up these two.

If I remember right, the original road car came with 195/55R13s. I had the chance to drive one briefly back when they were new, and I remember how those low-profile, small-diameter tires gave the car a crisp, quick handling feel.

As for FLY’s too-thick tires—well, I can just sand them down myself. But going too far with that ends up making the rear spur gear scrape the track. So in the end, there’s only so far I can go in the pursuit of realism.

Then again, I came to terms with this odd hobby a long time ago—20 years ago, to be exact. Slot cars demand a strange kind of compromise. Sure, there are a few cars that get everything just right. But if I stick to only those, it doesn’t take long before things start to feel dull. Even the ones that fall a bit short—in looks or handling—end up just as close to my heart.

After all, that’s how real cars are too. Different brands, different models—each one has its own character. And character, to me, is simply the interplay between styling and performance.

Trying to recreate those differences in miniature—that’s where the joy lies for me.

It’s also why I’ve never had the slightest interest in the standardized metal chassis of 1/24 slot cars. I only care for 1/32 cars with their plastic chassis, each one uniquely engineered and wildly inconsistent from brand to brand. That lack of standardization—that one chaotic point—is exactly what makes them feel like real cars to me.

LE MANS miniatures/ Hobby Classic; Renault 5 Gen1

Recently, Avant Slot announced their upcoming release of the first-generation Renault 5 rally car and transporter combo. If the Renault 5 body had been injection-molded ABS, I would’ve picked it up in a heartbeat—ready to run it hard without worrying about damage. That’s exactly what I was hoping for.

But from what I’ve gathered, the body is likely to be resin instead. That took the edge off my excitement.

Speaking of resin cars, I actually have two Le Mans Miniatures resin models in my collection. One is a Sainz Collection model—an exclusive product for Hobby Classic.

Not long ago, while thinking about my vast collection of “cold” cars—the ones I simply enjoy looking at—I had mentally filed these two firmly in that category: cars that I’m perfectly content just owning.

But after seeing Avant Slot’s announcement, it struck me that I actually wanted to run an R5. Deep down, I wanted to feel it in motion.

So I decided to warm up those two LMM cars and run them on the track.

I left the fragile mirror stalks as they were—clearly the kind that would snap clean off with even a single rollover. I’d run the cars as-is and, if they broke, I’d fix them then. With a bit of reinforcement using metal pins, I could repair them to be far stronger than the originals—virtually unbreakable.

But I don’t believe in preemptively snapping parts just to make them tougher. When something breaks, it shows where the actual stress point was, and that’s the most efficient place to reinforce. Just guessing where something might break based on appearance in a static state feels like pointless destruction to me.

I brought these two beautiful cars to my usual friend’s NINCO track and gave them a go.

That’s when I found out the LMM guide blades were sitting too deep for NINCO rails. They couldn’t complete a single clean lap. They didn’t come off the track, but no matter how many laps I ran, they kept snagging and stuttering, so I couldn’t find any enjoyment in it.

Sure, I wasn’t expecting them to perform like race-tuned machines—but still, the frustration was real. Next time I visit, I’ll shave down the blades and make sure they run like they should.

FLY Car Models Lola T70 Mk3B with NR3D chassis, etc

Recently, I stumbled across a stop-motion animation series on YouTube called "The Wind in the Willows", produced by Cosgrove Hall Films in the UK.
The Wind in the Willows (Full Movie)

It’s a traditional British puppet show-style production, and everything from the script, direction, and puppet design to the voice acting and cinematography is done so well that it feels like a waste to leave it just for children. After discovering around 50+ episodes on YouTube, it’s become a perfect bedtime ritual for my wife and me. Even after watching the same episode multiple times, we never get tired of it.

The Wind in the Willows was one of Cosgrove Hall Films’ early major successes in stop motion. The 1983 film was adapted from Kenneth Grahame’s 1908 classic and won both a BAFTA and an Emmy. Its popularity led to a follow-up stop-motion series for Thames TV / ITV Network also by Cosgrove Hall. The voice cast featured (L to R) Peter Sallis as Ratty in TV series, Michael Hordern as Badger, David Jason as Toad, Richard Pearson as Mole, and Ian Carmichael as Ratty in the first film and narrator in TV series.

And perhaps best of all, watching this show finally helped me understand the meaning behind the "Toad Hall Racing Team" name that sometimes pops up in Western motorsports.

Like Toad himself, I’m completely enchanted by the joys of motoring.
It made me want a car that would let me and my wife relive the spirit of Toad’s adventures. Then I remembered that FLY once released two versions of a Lola with Toad Hall graphics printed on the body.

I vaguely remembered from racing it some 20 years ago that the FLY Classic Series sidewinder Lola T70, like the Ferrari 512S, had trickier handling than the Porsche 908s or 917s. So this time, I decided from the start to build the new Lola with a 3D-printed chassis.

Shapeways, which I had once relied on for 3D-printed parts, went bankrupt and later restarted under (I assume) new management. But it’s now a B2B-style 3D solutions consultancy, and honestly, I can’t figure out how to order products from them anymore.

So I went looking for a direct purchasing option and got in touch with Vasco Cunha of National Racers 3D (NR3D). I ended up buying a T70 chassis compatible with the Slot-it sidewinder motor pod—not the all-in-one type. There weren’t any in stock at the time, so I waited a bit until they were reproduced and shipped out.

With the stock full-depth cockpit that comes with the FLY body, there’s no room underneath for a Slot-it motor mount. Sure, I could cut down the stock cockpit and driver figure as usual to make a shallow upper-half version, but I was in the mood to take it easy.

I’d always been curious about the ThunderSlot T70 Cockpit Kit, so I decided to give it a try. I also ordered the Engine & Exhaust Kit from LEB Hobbies just in case, but I ended up not using it.

I already knew that gluing and truing FLY stock rubber tires on the plastic wheels with stock rear axle from FLY could give great grip. But since the stock tires get super gummy when hot, truing two sets would be a hassle. So I took the easy route this time as well.

Older cars like the FLY-Classic series have very narrow wheel wells, so I need hubless aluminum wheels to make them fit. I ordered CB Design aluminum wheels, spyder inserts & 3-spoke knock-offs, and XPG urethane tires from Slot Car Corner.

For finishing the wheels, I didn’t go with metal primer and gun-metallic paint. Instead, I used a "Birchwood Casey Gun Blue Touch-Up Pen" from my airsoft hobby, which I started three years ago. Since it creates a black oxide layer on the aluminum surface through a chemical reaction, it’s more durable than paint, doesn’t affect the clearance for the inserts, and — best of all — gives authentic finish you'd see on a real gun's non polished metal.

The inserts, being resin, were just lightly sprayed with regular gun-metallic paint from a can.

After assembling all the chassis components, I installed the ThunderSlot cockpit kit into the body. I didn’t end up using the Engine & Exhaust Kit—instead, I slightly modified the original FLY parts and reused them. For the headlights and taillights, I added an LED kit from Z-Machine.

Finally, I finished it off with tire decals from Patto’s. I really love Patto’s decals—they’re thin yet tough, the ink is very opaque and durable, and they’re just excellent waterslide decals overall. I even bought a pair of Tamiya curved scissors just for cutting those arc-shaped tire decals. Compared to regular straight scissors, they make the job feel about 30% easier, at least to me.

Now I’m looking forward to running it again at my friend’s circuit in Osaka. “Poop-poop! Brum-brum-bruum!”